Monthly Picks: December 2010

For the month that brings us Christmas dinner and New Year's Eve parties we've got a selection of big (and mostly red) wines for the Monthly Picks selection. Share these beauties with friends and celebrate in style.

Viñas Centenarias 2006 Sabor Real Tempranillo (Toro) Spain - $15
A raw, unfiltered, unbridled and meaty wine from the Toro DO region of Spain. This 100% Tempranillo wine may turn out to be the best valued bargain of the year with a rustic bouquet of dark cherry, minerality, dried fruits and loads of toasted oak and earthy notes.
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Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2008 Cabernet Franc (Golden Mile Bench) Okanagan Valley - $17
Intense aromatics of savory herbs, dark fruit, vanilla and oak. A juicy texture on the dry palate with good continuity of flavours from the nose. Medium-plus tannins and acidity help create structure and frame the fruit flavours nicely.
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La Frenz Winery 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Naramata Bench) Okanagan Valley - $28
Round tannins and big dark berry flavours on the palate. Intense aromas of cassis and other dark fruits on the nose plus wanted oak notes.
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Fairview Cellars 2008 The Bear (Golden Mile Bench) Okanagan Valley - $35
The richness from the nose is carried through to the dry palate where the concentration of the dark fruit flavours hits you with the perception of sweetness. The fruit is followed by savoury toasted oak and mineral flavours with fine, integrated tannins.
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Château des Charmes 2007 Equuleus (St. David's Bench) Niagara Peninsula - $40
With 12 months in French barriques, the Equuleus is full of grainy oak aromas and flavours. The medium-intense nose does offer some nice dark berry notes, but they are mixed in with the savoury and aromatic characters of flowers, green coffee beans, vanilla, smoke and leather. The dry palate is easily characterized as "Old World" with earthy flavours, tomato stalk, bell pepper, dark berry and good minerality.

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Poplar Grove Winery 2006 The Legacy (Naramata Bench) Okanagan Valley - $50
A blend of 70% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon with intense aromas of dark fruits, oak and prunes with aromatic, perfume notes. The dry palate is supremely textured with concentrated flavours - good continuity from the nose. A touch of pepper spice lingers on the long, balanced finish.
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Rollingdale Winery 2007 Pinot Noir Ice Wine (West Kelowna) Okanagan Valley - $60
Massive concentration of fruit aromas and flavours (apricot jam, strawberry, fuzzy peaches candy and raspberry cremesicle) are nicely contrasted with impressively high acidity. This leads to a very long, balanced and satisfying finish.
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Meyer Family Vineyards 2009 Micro Cuvée Chardonnay (Naramata Bench) Okanagan Valley - $70
The long white wine in the monthly picks section is certainly a special occasion wine. The balance of fruit-to-acid-to-minerality is exquisite. Orchard fruits mingle with savoury oak notes and meld with citrus and melon characters. Highly concentrated on the palate with good continuity of flavours from the refined nose. The texture reminds one of a great cigar in the way it envelopes your mouth while never being overbearing.
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 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2010

Meyer Family Vineyards 2009 Micro Cuvée Chardonnay - 92-93pts

Meyer Family Vineyards 2009 Micro Cuvée Chardonnay (Naramata Bench) Okanagan Valley - BC

Availability: Direct from winery here. Select private and VQA stores
Cost: $70
Alcohol: 13.5%
Production: 72 cases
Date Tasted: November 14th, 2010

Tasting Notes: The Meyer Family Vineyards' 2009 Micro Cuvée Chardonnay comes from the same Old Main Road Vineyard on Naramata Bench that yields their excellent Tribute Series release. To make the grade as the Micro Cuvée, a small lot release of 72 cases, the winery selects the barrels which offer the best balance and greatest expression of terroir. The result is a Chardonnay that exudes character and pushes the quality benchmark for BC Chardonnay. In short, it's an "experience" wine.

The balance of fruit-to-acid-to-minerality is exquisite. Orchard fruits mingle with savoury oak notes and meld with citrus and melon characters. Highly concentrated on the palate with good continuity of flavours from the refined nose. The texture reminds one of a great cigar in the way it envelopes your mouth while never being overbearing.
This Meyer Family Vineyards Chardonnay strives for the same thing that the Grand Cru wines of Burgundy do - be the ultimate expression of terroir - that French term to describe everything that encompasses a wine's sense of place. That is not to say that the wines are doppelgangers, as comparing BC's youthful and varied vineyards to the thousand year old agricultural knowledge and meticulously planted landscape of Burgundy is irresolvable, but the attention to detail and the pursuit of excellent is - at the fraction of the price.

Enjoy this Chardonnay on its own with friends as a showcase. As with other 2009 releases, it is drinking well in its youth and has the finesse and pedigree to last a long time. Drink 2011-2020.
 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2010

Sandhill 2009 Small Lots Program Viognier - 88-89pts

Sandhill 2009 Small Lots Program Viognier (Southern Okanagan) BC

Availability: Direct from winery here. Select VQA stores
Cost: $24.99
Alcohol: 14.9%
Production: 615 cases
Date Tasted: November 11th, 2010

Tasting Notes: Pouring a glass of Sandhill's excellent Small Lot Program Viognier you'd swear it was heavily oaked and aged. Neither is correct. This 2009 vintage (an admirable follow-up to the outstanding and award-winning 2008 release) has seen no oak and was released in April. The apple juice-like, amber-gold colour and touch of oaky tannin richness likely comes from the whole-cluster pressing used during the crush.

When served chilled, but not cold, the intense aromas of apricots, pear, peaches, cardamom and tropical fruit will come alive in the glass. The equally intense, off-dry and full-bodied palate follows with good continuity of flavours and good pineapple tartness. At 14.9% alcohol, a reflection of the heat from the 2009 summer, the wine's balance tips towards too hot, but only a bit as the intensity and the smoky texture of the palate masks the alcohol, mostly.

Pair with roasted mushroom and smoked bacon creamy pasta. Drinking beautifully now or hold for further development. Drink 2010-2014.
 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2010

Quinta Da Garrida 2006 Vinho Tinta - 88pts

Quinta Da Garrida 2006 Vinho Tinta (Dao) Portugal

Availability: Limited. Select BCLDB stores
Cost: $12-17
Alcohol: 14%
Date Tasted: October 31st, 2010

Tasting Notes: Savoury, smoky and earthy in character with some dark berry fruit notes on both the nose and palate. Very smooth with well-structured medium tannins and acidity. A moderate-plus finish with lingering spicy-oak.

This red blend of native Portugal varietals Tinta-Roriz and Touriga-Nacional has aged beautifully. Definitely a wine to snatch-up, if you can find it, and enjoy as an over-delivering mid-week treat. Drink 2010-2012.
 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2010

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2009 Oldfield Series Kerner Icewine - 86-88pts

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2009 Oldfield Series Kerner Icewine (Golden Mile Bench) Okanagan Valley - BC

Availability: Direct from winery here. Select VQA stores
Cost: $29.99 (375ml)
Alcohol: 12.6%
Production: 302 cases
Date Tasted: September 30th, 2010

Tasting Notes: When conditions cooperate Tinhorn Creek produces icewine from their block of Kerner grapes (a winter-hearty cross of Riesling and Trollinger). In 2009 conditions were met and the result from the Golden Mile winery is a tasty treat of a dessert wine but one that lacks the overall intensity of the top icewines produced in BC.

The nose offers aromas of apricot, lemon rind, maple, slate mineral and smoky notes. The fully-sweet palate follows with a citrus medley of tangerine, orange rind and lemon flavours. This Oldfield Series release is appropriately priced as an entry-level icewine - one that can be enjoyed on its own or served over vanilla ice cream. Drink 2010-2016.
 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2010

Meyer Family Vineyards 2008 McLean Creek Road Vineyard Pinot Noir - 90-91pts

Meyer Family Vineyards 2008 McLean Creek Road Vineyard Pinot Noir (Okanagan Falls) Okanagan Valley - BC

Availability: Limited. Direct from winery here. Select private and VQA stores
Cost: $40
Alcohol: 13.5%
Production: 150 cases
Date Tasted: November, 2010

Tasting Notes: The McLean Creek Road Vineyard Pinot Noir is tasty, complex and well mannered. It's the Pinot you bring home to mom. That is not to imply boring in any way, but rather to indicate that it is neat, tidy and won't speak out of turn. Ok, it's a tad predictable with a classic dark red fruits and earthy-notes profile, but when the more flashy Pinots leave you hanging, this is the one you'll turn to for dependable quality and Pinotranquility.

Refined aromas of dark cherry, plum, warm gravel, toasted oak, vanilla and a hint of spice are followed by an intense palate of similar flavours with added raspberry flavours and a smoky texture. The moderate-plus finish is well balanced with medium tannins and acid.

I recommend you give this wine some more time in the bottle to settle and gel. It should reward patient cellaring with its excellent structure. Pair with classic Pinot Noir friendly dishes like baked salmon or beef stew. Drink 2011-2016.
 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2010

Meyer Family Vineyards 2008 Central Valley Vineyard Pinot Noir - 88-89pts

Meyer Family Vineyards 2008 Central Valley Vineyard Pinot Noir (Kelowna) Okanagan Valley - BC

Availability: Direct from winery here. Select private and VQA stores
Cost: $40
Alcohol: 13.5%
Production: 150 cases
Date Tasted: November 9th, 2010

Tasting Notes: Complex layers of cured meats, dark cherry, vanilla, licorice, toasted oak aromas and barnyard notes greet you on the nose of this Central Valley Vineyard Pinot Noir from Meyer Family Vineyards. The bone-dry, savoury palate follows with prominent oak, plum, pine sap, mineral and vegemite flavours. The continuity from the nose to the palate is a bit askew due to the astringent bitterness character to the palate. A waxy textured wine with a moderate finish. Drink 2011-2014.
 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2010

Meyer Family Vineyards 2009 Pinot Noir - 88pts

Meyer Family Vineyards 2009 Pinot Noir (Okanagan Valley) - BC

Availability: Direct from winery here. VQA stores
Cost: $25
Alcohol: 13.8%
Production: 620 cases
Date Tasted: November 6th, 2010

Tasting Notes: A varietal release from Meyer Family Vineyards made from Pinot Noir grapes sourced through-out the Okanagan Valley. For an entry-level Pinot Noir this wine delivers a surprisingly complex nose of raspberry, plum, mushroom, forest floor and oak spice, highlighted by aromatic jasmine notes. The palate offers good continuity from the nose with added mineral characters.

The hot 2009 growing season has contributed a bit more tannin than normal for Pinot Noir, but it doesn't over-power the palate in any way. Flavours are both juicy and earthy. The texture is tart and dusty making this an excellent wine to accompany food. Pair with heartier fare than your normal Pinot Noir, it can handle it. Ready to enjoy now, but will keep fresh for years with its quality fruit and screw top enclosure. Drink 2010-2014.
 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2010

Daniel Dampt and Fils 2007 1er Cru Côte de Léchet - 90+pts

Daniel Dampt and Fils 2007 1er Cru Côte de Léchet (Chablis) Burgundy - France

Availability: Select private wine shops
Cost: $30-40
Alcohol: 13%
Date Tasted: October 17th, 2010

Tasting Notes: An ultra-crisp Chardonnay form producer Daniel Dampt and Fils with classic Chablis aromas and flavours of biting lemon rind, tart green apples, sweet kiwi and strong mineral notes from river rocks and steel. There is also a nice touch of nuttiness and a kiss of oak which add nuance to the prominent acid characters.

Premier Cru Chablis offers great value for money and variation of styles as the producers tend to experiment more with the vinification compared to the Grand Cru selections. The Côte de Léchet 1er Cru  is still a bit tight and would benefit from another year in the bottle. Expect more fruity characters down the road. Drink 2011-2017.
 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2010

Meyer Family Vineyards 2009 McLean Creek Road Vineyard Chardonnay - 90+pts

Meyer Family Vineyards 2009 McLean Creek Road Vineyard Chardonnay (Okanagan Falls) Okanagan Valley - BC

Availability: Direct from winery here. Select private and VQA stores
Cost: $35
Alcohol: 13.5%
Production: 216 cases
Date Tasted: November 7th, 2010

Tasting Notes: If the Meyer Family Vineyards Tribute Series Chardonnay can be likened to the wines of the Côte de Beaune then their McLean Creek Road Vineyard Chardonnay could be described as Chablis-like. The Okanagan Falls site has produced a crisp, focused and steely wine with loads of biting citrus, green apple and mineral characters that make you think of the wonderfully tart Chardonnay from Chablis. However, the added oak aromas and flavours and its silky texture make the wine a uniquely Okanagan product.

The dry palate bursts with lemon zest and mouth-watering acidity. The presence of savory flavours from the oak pair beautifully with the tart citrus notes. The finish is long and balanced with lingering spiced-lemon tang making you salivate for more. Drink 2010-2014.
 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2010

Meyer Family Vineyards 2009 Tribute Series Chardonnay - 91+pts

Meyer Family Vineyards 2009 Tribute Series Chardonnay (Naramata Bench) Okanagan Valley - BC

Availability: Direct from winery here. Select private and VQA stores
Cost: $35
Alcohol: 13.5%
Production: 292 cases
Date Tasted: November, 2010

Tasting Notes: Meyer Family Vineyards produces single vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines that follow the Burgundian code: make wines that express the terroir. The Tribute Series Chardonnay comes from their Naramata Bench property and exudes stonefruit minerality and juicy, fruit aromas and flavours. The key word for this wine, however, is "balance". It is so well balanced that in its presence your TV won't switch channels to Fox News.

The supreme balance comes from the medley of tart, green apple acidity paired with concentrated orchard and tropical fruit flavours all enveloped in layers of subtle, French oak. Acid, the perception of sweetness and savoury characters create a near-perfect trifecta of balance.

The 2009 vintage has produced a wine that is both approachable in its youth and cellar worthy. For such a youthful wine, it possesses a long, long finish. Excellent. Drink 2010-2017.
 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2010

Fairview Cellars 2007 Cabernet Franc - 89-90pts

Fairview Cellars 2007 Cabernet Franc (Golden Mile Bench) Okanagan Valley - BC

Availability: Limited. Select private stores like Everything Wine
Cost: $25-30
Alcohol: 14.2%
Date Tasted: November 3rd, 2010

Tasting Notes: When Cabernet Franc is able to fully ripen, as it does in the Fairview Cellars home vineyard on the Golden Mile Bench, it can be one of the most unique red wine drinking experiences around. The best word to describe a great BC Cabernet Franc is "funky". There's a blue cheese-like twang to the nose and palate that inspires a quizzical thought "is it off or divine?" What a refreshing change from the standard, go-to, Cab Sauv/Merlot reds that so many folks buy.

The first stop to Cab Francoville is appreciating the aromatic qualities of the nose. No Viognier needed here - take that Syrah! The Fairview offering has intense perfume notes with both dark and red berry aromas and that tell-tale cheesy-funk.

The last stop on the Cab Francenbus Express is to appreciate the intensity of the palate despite the absence of massive tannins. This Fairview wine has aged beautifully and will continue to develop further over the next two years. The medium-intense, ripe tannins are well integrated with the prominent dark berry and earthy flavours. A balanced, long finish completes the experience. Drink 2011-2015.
 - Liam Carrier ©copyright Icon Wines 2010

Meyer Family Vineyards 2007 Tribute Series Chardonnay - 89+pts

Meyer Family Vineyards 2007 Tribute Series Chardonnay (Naramata Bench) Okanagan Valley - BC

Availability: Direct from winery here. VQA stores
Cost: $35
Alcohol: 14%
Production: 399 cases
Date Tasted: November 1st, 2010

Tasting Notes: With three years of aging, the 2007 vintage Chardonnay has developed a lovely golden hue and bouquet of caramel apple, Bosc pear, vanilla fudge, smoke and clove spice. The palate has evolved nicely as well, but feels a bit chunky. Intense flavours of orchard fruit, savoury toasted oak, toffee and cloves sit well in the mouth with a green apple tartness of high-minus acidity adding a nice kick.

A full-bodied Chardonnay to be sure with a balanced, long finish. Certainly a quality wine that can be enjoyed on its own. Still developing with another 3-4 years left before it peaks but is drinking beautifully now. Drink 2010-2014.
 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2010

Cedar Creek Estate Winery 2009 Ehrenfelser - 88pts

Cedar Creek Estate Winery 2009 Ehrenfelser (Kelowna) Okanagan Valley - BC

Availability: Limited. Winery direct and select VQA stores
Cost: $18.99
Alcohol: 13.8%
Date Tasted: September 25th, 2010

Tasting Notes: Ehrenfelser is a cross of Riesling and Sylvaner and performs very well in the cooler parts of the Okanagan Valley. So well, in fact, that I'm surprised we don't see more of it. Cedar Creek's is the best of the bunch year-in, year-out. Perhaps due to the way they meticulously manage the vineyard or perhaps the vineyard site itself. Whatever the case, it's a fantastic wine, perfect for hot summer days and which easily sells out each year. My tip for the next vintage is to go into your local VQA store and ask for it at the counter rather than search the shelves. It sells so fast that some stores don't bother to stock it out front.

If you do get your hands on some you'll get a lovely aromatic wine with perfume, cooking spice, citrus and mineral aromas on the intense nose. The ever-so-slightly off-dry palate offers refreshing acidity and good continuity of flavours from the nose. Excellent balance with a long-ish finish. Drink this wine in its youth. Drink 2010-2012.
 - Liam Carrier ©copyright 2010